Hugel: “the only true alcohol-free alternative is water”

In the heart of Alsace, a French region renowned for its storied and characterful wines, the Famille Hugel vineyard, boasting over three and a half centuries of winemaking tradition, has chosen to confront the rising popularity of non-alcoholic wines with a mix of humor and skepticism. This venerable institution, led by Jean-Frédéric Hugel, the thirteenth generation of the family, has remained true to its essence despite what they consider to be fleeting wine market trends.

Recently, in a move blending humor with irony, Hugel announced the launch of a non-alcoholic Riesling named 0.0. He did this on April 1st, famously known as April Fool's Day in many countries, prompting many to wonder if the news was real or just another playful hoax. Later, he confirmed that it was indeed a joke, emphasizing his point of view that "the only real non-alcoholic alternative is water."

The process of producing non-alcoholic wines has sparked debate within the industry. These wines are made using methods that include vacuum distillation, spinning cone technology, or reverse osmosis. According to Hugel, these processes are not only energy-intensive but can also alter the aromatic profile and structure of the wine, stripping it of its inherent qualities.

Hugel's critique extends beyond the technical process; it delves into the logic of consuming non-alcoholic wines from an environmental standpoint. In an era where sustainability is increasingly paramount, the irony of choosing a product that may require more resources and energy to produce does not escape this seasoned vintner.

Famille Hugel's philosophy about wine is clear: it's about preserving the essence and character of the fruit, honoring traditions, and respecting the environment. This approach stands in stark contrast to the production of non-alcoholic wines, a field Hugel sees not just as a passing trend but as a practice that might not align with the principles of quality and sustainability that have kept his winery on the map for generations.

When it comes to alternatives, Hugel proposes a simple yet profound solution: drink less but better. He champions wines that, due to their quality and complexity, invite moderation, providing a richer and more gratifying experience. This approach, which blends respect for tradition with modern responsibility, is what he sees as the true future of wine consumption.

At Famille Hugel, where there has been a centuries-long love affair with varietals like Muscat, which naturally exhibits lower alcohol content, the response to the demand for lower-alcohol options doesn't involve industrial manipulation but rather the smart choice of grapes and cultivation practices that preserve the integrity of the terroir and climate.

The winery continues to stay true to its mission of producing wines that reflect their origin, with minimal intervention and the utmost respect for nature. Thus, while some in the industry might look for quick fixes through technology, at Famille Hugel, tradition and sustainability remain the main guides. In a world that increasingly values authentic and environmentally respectful products, it seems that this Alsatian vineyard has secured its place, offering wines that not only delight the palate but also prompt reflection on what we drink and the impact it has on the planet.