2026-03-20
The Italian wine sector is facing a period of structural and global decline in consumption, a trend that has become increasingly evident over the past few years. This shift is not simply due to consumers turning away from wine, but rather the industry’s struggle to keep pace with changing habits, perceptions, and expectations—especially among younger generations. These changes were discussed at the “Ripensare il vino: momenti e strategie per crescere in un mercato che cambia” forum, held at the Accademia Intrecci in Castiglione in Teverina, a school founded by Dominga, Marta, and Enrica Cotarella.
Riccardo Cotarella, president of Assoenologi and co-founder of Chiasso-Cotarella Consulting, summarized the current challenge: wine is losing its connection with consumers. Twenty years ago, the focus was on improving quality and expanding offerings beyond structured wines. Today, the conversation has shifted to how wine can remain relevant as it faces competition from other beverages, health concerns, and a perception of elitism fueled by complex language and marketing.
Export data for 2025 shows a decrease but not a collapse compared to the record year of 2024: value dropped by 3.7% to €7.7 billion and volume by 1.8% to 2.1 billion liters. Domestic sales also declined, with supermarket sales down 1.1% in value (€2.3 billion) and 3.4% in volume (737 million liters). Sparkling wines like Prosecco and Trentodoc have performed better than still wines, responding to consumer demand for conviviality and accessible luxury.
In the United States—the world’s largest wine market—tariffs have had limited impact so far, with prices for imported European wines rising only about 1%. However, higher tariffs are expected from 2026 onward. Italian wines have outperformed American wines in restaurants, especially whites like Pinot Grigio and Prosecco, as well as lower-alcohol options. Still, wine is losing ground to other beverages amid growing health consciousness and anti-alcohol campaigns.
Germany remains a key market for Italian wine, accounting for one-third of all imported wine there. However, German consumers are highly price-sensitive and not loyal to brands. Consumption is shifting toward white wines and “No-Lo” (no or low alcohol) products. Inflation and health trends are also contributing to declining volumes.
Industry leaders agree that communication must evolve. The traditional focus on quality is no longer enough; messaging needs to be more accessible and less technical to engage younger audiences. Opening wineries to visitors and offering authentic experiences are seen as essential strategies for building loyalty and emotional connections with consumers.
Daniele Colombo of Esselunga noted that supermarkets are now places where new trends emerge. Consumers seek enjoyable wines at democratic prices, with sparkling wines leading sales due to their versatility and affordability.
Enrico Chiavacci of Marchesi Antinori emphasized the importance of adapting both production and storytelling to modern lifestyles. He argued that building lasting relationships with customers requires authentic narratives that go beyond technical details.
Aldo Fiordelli of JamesSuckling.com pointed out that while price remains a barrier for many consumers, wine’s experiential nature gives it an advantage over other luxury goods. He suggested that people now open bottles not just to drink but for the experience itself.
Alessandro Rossi of Partesa highlighted the need for new approaches in training both consumers and commercial professionals. He recalled how family meals once introduced young people to wine culture—a tradition that needs modern equivalents if new generations are to develop an appreciation for wine.
Sandro Camilli of AIS (Italian Sommelier Association) called for a simpler language around wine that can reach broader audiences without sacrificing substance. He advocated for collaboration among institutions, associations, consortia, and professionals to support an industry that represents both economic value and cultural heritage for Italy.
Daniele Cernilli of DoctorWine stressed that effective communication should inform rather than judge or score wines. He argued that the sector needs more skilled communicators who can make complex topics accessible—something other fields have achieved through popular science programming.
Attilio Scienza from the University of Milan added that concepts like “autochthonous” (native) grapes must be understood in relation to territory and vocation rather than genetics alone. He believes that great wines result from placing grape varieties where they can fully express their identity through interaction with nature.
The forum brought together experts from across Italy and abroad—including producers, economists, marketers, educators, and scientists—to share ideas on how the industry can adapt to these challenges. The consensus was clear: Italian wine must reconnect with consumers through clearer communication, authentic experiences, flexible strategies, and a renewed focus on what makes each wine special in its context.
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