Can Sweden Become a Wine Destination?

Sweden, known for its breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage, is now making strides in an unexpected arena: winemaking. Far from the traditional Mediterranean vineyards, a burgeoning community of vintners is exploring the potential of this Nordic country for producing quality wine. Among these pioneers is Lena Magnergård, who, along with her husband Erik Björkman, established a vineyard on Selaön Island, just an hour west of Stockholm, in 2019. This vineyard, considered Sweden's northernmost, spans approximately 1,000 vines, a modest yet ambitious start in a region unaccustomed to grape cultivation.

Lena Magnergård's journey into viticulture is as inspiring as it is unconventional. With a background in political communication, Magnergård transitioned into winemaking, driven by a passion for the craft and the potential she saw in Sweden's cool climate. Despite producing their first wine three years ago, Magnergård admits that they are still in the learning phase. Her background as a sommelier provides her with a foundation in wine, but she acknowledges the limitations of book knowledge compared to the hands-on experience passed down through generations in more established wine regions. To bridge this gap, Magnergård looks to France, renowned for its rich winemaking traditions, as a source of inspiration and guidance.

The expansion of viticulture in Northern Europe, including Sweden, owes much to the development of new grape varieties suited to colder climates. One such variety, Solaris, is a cornerstone of Magnergård's vineyard. Known for its disease resistance and ability to thrive in cooler temperatures, Solaris has a shorter growing cycle, making it well-suited to the Nordic climate, where summers are brief and temperatures can be chilly. These attributes are crucial for regions like Sweden, where traditional grape varieties might struggle to mature.

Further south, in the Bjäre Peninsula, Thora Vingård cultivates Solaris across 11 hectares, alongside more traditional varieties like Pinot Noir. This vineyard, established in 2015 by a Swedish-American couple, is a testament to the potential diversity of grapes that can be cultivated in Sweden. Romain Chichery, a French viticulturist working with Emma Berto, describes Sweden as a "new playing field" for viticulture, with untapped potential yet to be fully realized.

The growth of viticulture in Sweden is evident, with increasing interest from both local and international communities. Chichery notes that they've even persuaded a neighboring farmer to plant 200 vines alongside his dairy farm, indicating a growing curiosity and willingness to experiment with grape cultivation. However, Chichery also acknowledges that there is much work to be done to elevate the quality of wine produced in the region.

One of the significant challenges facing Swedish winemakers is the country's strict alcohol sales regulations. Currently, visitors must order wine through the state monopoly, Systembolaget, which restricts direct access to locally produced wines. However, there is hope on the horizon. The Swedish government has announced plans to consider allowing direct sales from vineyards starting in 2025, with a limit of three liters of wine per purchase. This potential policy change could significantly boost the visibility and accessibility of Swedish wines, allowing them to compete more directly with those from established wine-producing countries.

Despite being in its infancy, Swedish viticulture shows promising growth. Thora Vingård, for instance, produced 10,000 bottles last year and aims to double this output to 20,000 bottles by the 2024 harvest. While still a small player on the global stage, the burgeoning industry is garnering attention and enthusiasm, both domestically and abroad.

Murre Sofrakis, a prominent figure in Swedish viticulture, reflects on the two types of people drawn to this burgeoning industry: entrepreneurs looking for new opportunities and those for whom winemaking is a way of life. Sofrakis, who owns a two-hectare vineyard in southern Sweden, believes that the potential for the Swedish wine industry is vast, yet challenges remain, particularly in terms of public awareness and market access.

As climate change reshapes traditional wine regions, Northern Europe, including Sweden, emerges as a new frontier for viticulture. With innovative grape varieties, passionate pioneers, and a slowly evolving regulatory landscape, Sweden's winemaking journey is one of adaptation, resilience, and, above all, exploration. The future looks bright for Swedish wines, as they carve out a unique place in the global wine narrative.